
Here is a quick and general guide to caring different types of textiles, materials and clothes.
Did you realize that how you store clothing has an immense impact on clothes? Most of us cram our clothes in to over-stuffed cupboards, closets or drawers, where the textiles hardly get a chance to breathe. Since they get rubbed against each other and generally hang on bad hangers, they lose their form and the textiles will deteriorate. Learn from theatres and other institutions who conserve costumes and store valuable clothing: Hangers and space are important. This doesn't mean everyone must have a walk-in-closet; but if you have storage space, make sure to hang your winter or summer wardrobe away and let the rest of your clothes breathe! (Another reason why you shouldn't over-shop: You are actually mistreating the rest of your wardrobe.)
Let your wool clothes rest for 24 hours between wearing. Do not hang knitted garments on hangers, but fold them neatly in drawers.
Let the rest of your clothes breathe
Moth-balls are not very environmentally friendly, but neither are moth-holes. When clothes get put away for summer (or winter) they must be clean to avoid attracting moths. A twig of Myrica gale, or Bog Myrtle, will keep the moth away, as well as the mosquitoes. So two-for-one there.
Hand washing detergents can be used for home laundry when cleaning fine fabrics. These products are often effective when using cold water. However, not all hand washing detergents are milder than regular laundry products although they are often more expensive. Properties to look for when using hand washing detergents include use in cold water, quick dissolving in cold water, and complete rinsing of the detergent after the wash. To test hand washing detergents or any detergent, dissolve recommended amount of detergent in a quart of cold water. Allow the detergent and water to sit for 24 hours. Note the residue, if any, in the bottom of the quart jar. This residue may be difficult to rinse out of your garment.
Shampoos can also be used for hand washing garments. Use a good shampoo, not one containing "creme rinse". If your shampoo cleans your hair and leaves it shiny with no residues, it usually cleans your garment too.
Saving silk
In the past, owning a silk garment meant not only the initial price of the garment but also the cost of dry cleaning. All silk is washable. Silk is a natural protein fiber, like human hair, taken from the cocoon of the silkworm. The natural glue, sericin, secreted by silkworms and not totally removed during manufacturing of the silk, is a natural sizing which is brought out when washing in warm water. Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Technically, silk does not shrink like other fibers. Silk garments, however, can shrink if the fabric has not been washed prior to garment construction. When washing silk, do not wring but roll in a towel. Silk dries quickly but should not be put in an automatic dryer. A good shampoo works well on silk. It will remove oil and revitalize your silk. Do not use an alkaline shampoo or one which contains ingredients such as wax, petroleum, or their derivatives, as these products will leave a residue on your silk and may cause "oil" spots. If static or clinging is a problem with your silks, a good hair conditioner (see above cautions) may be used in the rinse water. Silk may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam iron are recommended. Silk is also weakened by sunlight and perspiration.
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as a hazardous air pollutant. Wet Cleaning is described as a new process by some cleaning establishments. They advertise that their process will replace dry cleaning and the environmentally dangerous solvents they use. Wet cleaning is accomplished by using water based chemicals. This new process is supposed to replace dry cleaning. However, until the wet cleaning process has been thoroughly tested, care should be taken before taking your favorite "dry clean only" garments to the new establishments. Outer fabric, interfacings, linings, shoulder pads, and finishes all react differently when washed. Some fabrics shrink or change shape when washed. Some shoulder pads are designed for dry cleaning only and may fall apart when washed.
Finally, develop a dialogue with your dry cleaner. Note the type of stains that you have on your garment and list it for the dry cleaner. Their pre-spotting will help eliminate stains that could otherwise be heat set after the garment is cleaned. Not all spots can be removed especially if you, the consumer, have pressed the stain into the fabric. And if your piece of clothing has really nice buttons, consider covering them with tin foil as protection. If the buttons are extremely nice, cut them off and resew them on after dry-cleaning.