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Wool meetings in Oslo

Eco-Innovation, wool and IWTO membership was on the agenda in Oslo recently. A group of Norwegian, Scandinavian and European high level stakeholders of the wool industry have met in Oslo in September for a formal working meeting in regard to an EU project application on “eco-innovation”, as well as for the start of negotiations on a Norwegian/Scandinavian membership within IWTO. IWTO was represented by the Convenor of the IWTO WG “Organic-Eco” Jens Nielsen, and Tom Podkolinski from the UK-company Finisterre contributed knowledge on sourcing local wool - since this is the aim of "Valuing Norwegian Wool".

The four-day meetings were a mix of formal and informal meetings, kick-started on a Sunday with an informal gathering of mainly designers and representatives of the wool industry in Germany, Sweden and the UK, in the private home of Tone Tobiasson (NICE Fashion). This gave a varied and interesting snap-shot of Norwegian contemporary and more traditionally inspired design, along with the chance for those who work with producing wool to ask pertinent questions about the local wool used by among others Cecilie Melli (her cardigan is pictured to the right) and Telespinn (who run a mini-mill). 

The following day there were more formal presentations on Norwegian wool qualities (Animalia), on mini-mills (Telespinn and Selbu spinneri), on the Bowmont Project that Finisterre has implemented in the UK in order to source local wool in their undergarments for surfers and on the work that textile designer Franz Schmidt had done at Sjølingstad Uldvarefabrik in Mandal. There was also a presentation of the Eco-Innovaton application, introducing the consept of "renewawool" and Cradle to Cradle thinking. Several issues were raised and the meetings were extremely fruitful, as questions were raised around such diverse things as medullation in wool, the micron of the spæl-sheep's underwool, de-hairing processes and how to utilize the qualities of Norwegian wool that are not valued buy today's classification system. 

For the Norwegians it was very interesting to hear Tom's presentation on the Bowmont project and how the media-attention generated has made their investement pay off already, even before the actual products are being sold. Franz' presentation also brought forward how much knowledge is about to be lost, and that archives are becoming a new gold-mine that should be more effectively tapped by Norwegian designers and fashion companies. 

The formal meetings were held at SIFO's offices; and Monday night those who had a chance joined us for "får-i-kål" on board Ingun Grimstad Klepp and her husband's sailboat, docked next to the Opera. This, of course to illustrate that sheep are unique in that they give us so many products ranging from meat to wool. lanolin, milk and cultural landscaping. Sadly, the specialization of agriculture has somehow "unhinged" this, along with the parallell unhinging of the value-chain in wool-production. Tom told us that Bowmont-sheep originally were bred for their meat, when it turns out their wool is so soft it can be used in next-to-skin products. The whole issue of which breeds actually can produce both finer fibers and other by-products developed in to a very interesting discussion.

Tuesday was spent trying to get the Eco-Innovation application's budget in place (impossible task) and a presentation of the IWTO and their work - so that we could begin discussing a structure for a Norwegian or Scandinavian membership. It was agreed to go forward, but that we need to structure a coalition of the interested parties. These are:NSG, Norilia, Fatland, Animalia, HSH, Norsk Industri, and perhaps NFI.This may be an issue that has to be discussed at a Ministry-level; but we will go forward on this issue this fall.

Wednesday there was a more informal meeting with the IWTO and Norilia, who agreed very much on the need for more cooperation. If wool is going to continue to be a by-product of sheep in Norway, there needs to be a lot of innovation and new thoughts - and after four intense days in Oslo - we see the possibilities of both larger industrial partners and smaller designers to develop solutions that will make this possible, But it will depend on that the momentum is there, and that we do in fact get more funds in the years to come to develop systems of sourcing local wool in the most eco-friendly fashion possible - and ensuring the resulting designs and products are of the best quality - so that they actually pay off.