Professional guide

Sourcing local crafts

Fashion has always been influenced by ethnic crafts, and designers all over the world have borrowed heavily from African prints, Icelandic knit, Indian crafts and Himalayan silk painting. But generally without the local artisans getting much in return. Using the local craftswomen and men is a new way of sourcing ethically, and to help build up local trade.

The Talents of Brazil is one such program, which was recently showcased at Prêt-à-Porter Salon in Paris. The program was created by the Brazilian Ministry of Agrarian Development and is supported today by ABIT (the Brazilian Textile and Apparel Industry Association), Caixa Econômica Federal and SEBRAE (Brazilian Micro and Small Business Support Service). The goal is to encourage the exchange of knowledge among the Brazilian craftspeople, generating jobs and adding value to their work. Minister Guilherme Cassel believes that the project also helps to reduce the exodus from the villages to the towns. "The rural life, the life of the craftswomen, is getting better. If there is a possiblity of a good life, the young population stays in the countryside and gives continuity to the local handicraft."

The goal is to encourage the exchange of knowledge

Mostly made up of women, these communities are able to bring old manual techniques back - many of them threatened - and re-launch them on a new marketable and traditional level. Craftswoman Sueli Magno, from Flor de Marajó Cooperative in Marajó Island explains how she has been working with straw. "With the help of a stylist we are making more expensive products and with better quality." The prices of the pieces are decided from the fixed cost, raw material, taxes, logistics, profits, labor and other items that are defined by the groups, with assistance of the Talents of Brazil's team. After the products are shipped each team shares the profits among its participants, according to their individual production. Well-known Brazilian stylists and designers participate in work-shops with the artisans.

"When these craftswomen see that the media has applauded their work and that they are recognized by their cultural characteristics, nothing will be the same any more in the lives of these people. We are not talking about the product, but the self-esteem," notes Ronaldo Fraga, one of the first stylists to join Talents of Brazil. The program has doubled the income of most participant families.

Another project, on a much smaller scale, is that of the Norwegian designer Leila Hafzi who has been working with skilled artisans in Nepal for over 12 years. In recent years she has designed dresses that are handpainted by so-called thangka-painters. Thangka is a painted or embroidered Buddhist banner which was hung in a monastery or a family altar and occasionally carried by monks in ceremonial processions. Inspired by buddhist paintings of animals and in the Nektar-collection pictured to the right, beautiful flowers, Leila has created wonderful gowns in conjunction with the artisans. She also works with local women who knit and crochet delicate details, and she has worked with traditional wood-carvers and paper-producers to create unique pieces. Her creations are frequently spotted on red carpets around the world, and several Hollywood-stars have chosen Leila Hafzi for her ethical approach to design. Her ambition and dream from the very start was to show-case Nepalese handicrafts in a fashion setting.