Professional guide

Size counts

Sizes constitute a problem for the consumer, and as a designer or clothing producer, you may inadvertently be adding to the problem. The idea the Norwegian designer Anouk had to label sizes as follows: Sensational (small), Magical (medium), Lovely (large) is cute, but doesn't address the real problem: Fit.

Susan Lyne, ceo of the Gilt Groupe, an invitation-only online shopping-site, recently made a startling observation. As soon as they put more sizing information on the site, they saw an uptick in sales.

Buying clothes in the wrong size or clothes that just don't fit the body shape is a problem one would assume for the most part is related to mail-order and internet-purchases. But it turns out that many women and men do not like to try on clothes in stores, for various reasons, and rely on the size-labels. Since these vary widely, there are a lot of clothes stuffed in the back of closets that end up as a potential waste-problem without even being used.

A Norwegian study - Large? Clothing sizes and size labeling - funded by the Nordic Council of Ministers examined the relationship between the clothing sizes and the size labeling in the garments, and how consumers experienced it, with data collected in Norway, Finland and Sweden. After measuring actual sizes in stores and doing in-depth interviews and surveys, the report found that sizing systems are confusing and full of disparities. A pair of trousers labeled L could be smaller than another labeled S. The European committee for standardization is developing a common European size code for garments, but they have experienced problems in reaching a system that indicates the sizes accurately, without being to long and complicated for consumers to understand or for manufacturers to use; also in the view that fewer mistake purchases will be beneficial for the environment as it decreases the disposal of textiles.

Sizing systems are confusing and full of disparities

The question of "vanity labeling" was also addressed in the study, along with the myth that the opposite occurs: Fashion manufacturers mark the sizes too large, which implies that the clothes are smaller than the labels indicate intended as a marketing advantage for clothes that should only fit "trendy" bodies. The whole discussion around "size zero" being at the core of these sizing-distortions. The study showed, however, that there was no systematic "mis-use" of either strategy to flatter or exclude consumers. However, over 60 % have to spend time finding something that actually fits and the same number cannot find clothes in their preffered style that are sold in their size. The majority of the respondents support the idea of having the same labeling system everywhere.

On the the study's conclusions is that the current sizing labels are not only confusing because so many different systems are used side by side, but also because they are not used correctly. Since clothes are made in RTW sizes that are meant to fit most people, size labeling is a communication system and the purpose of the system is actually to make it simpler to find clothes that fit. This presupposes that manufacturers must label sizes correctly, the consumers must understand and trust size labeling, and the clothes must fit. The study reveals flaws in all three areas. (Laitala, Hauge and Klepp/SIFO - Norwegian National Institute for Consumer Research)